Photos : Zarafa Camp
Botswana – Zarafa Camp
You see films and photos from Africa that are simply stunning and awe inspiring. Ranging from scenery to animals, you conjure up a mental image of wild animals roaming around in iconic surroundings anywhere you look. Obviously this is not true and on the ground you realise the photos you’ve seen took skill, patience and a dollop of luck.
From Zambia we had to pass through customs and immigration to sit with deodorant devoid passengers in a stark concrete walled room decorated by a gulag architect. A saving grace was the TV that had the news. Travellers from the US were suckling from the grey nipple spouting news. The irony of having the channel being Al Jazerah and talking about the US was lost.
We bid farewell to the others as we headed to our chartered plane which I hoped was substantially larger than a hang glider and had more sturdy wings. Whilst not the largest plane I’ve been in, I was happy enough it wasn’t the smallest. Even more inspiring was the pilot seemed to know what he was doing (he was nonchalantly kicking the tires). Generally the pilots won’t deviate from the set course however our pilot was kind to deviate and tracked the river allowing us to see the landscape, life and animals from above. A couple of runways later we landed in Botswana….Glen-glamping style.
We’re here! Now show me the animals.
First glamp was Zarafa. It has a private lease which means you don’t have to stick to the main roads, although you generally do, and you are not restricted by time i.e. you have the option to night drives (we did a few and saw a big fat zero of different wildlife).
En route to camp we snaked our way around the lake on which Zarafa lodge is located. Our drive was suddenly halted by the local inhabitants aka herd of elephants. Sitting on the banks of the lake, we watched the families replenish water, also play with each other and discuss the last place they ate one of those tasty foreigners. The younger elephants were running around chasing butterflies and birds. Teenage males let testosterone influence their brains (yes I know it’s the same with men) and pushed and shoved each other, unsure what they were fighting about. Some stood guard over the herd whilst welcoming each other. Effectively they behaved like humans only with more decency.
Where decadence meets canvas
Zarafa has only a few tents, each with its own plunge pool and outdoor shower. Situated on the banks of a lake (during the rainy season) the tents are amongst the trees on the banks. It’s a great vantage point to watch sunsets, roaming animals and listening to the hippo choir.
When I say ‘tent’ I actually mean a canvas palace complete with huge double bed, copper bath, shower, porcelain toilet, separate sitting room with a couch and fridge. It sits on a raised wooden platform with the plunge pool at one and and outside shower at the other. My words will not do it justice and as I neglected to take any decent photos inside the tent, here’s the Zarafa site and if you’re really bored, you can check out my shaky vid here.
The main tent has a sitting area with a few couches, a separate large dining area plus an outside dining area with uninterrupted views of the lake and is perfect for watching the sun go down. In short, Zarafa is simply stunning, from the accommodation to staff/hosts to the chef to the scenery.
Apparently there aren’t alarm clocks here however not so in our tent. We had a strict policy of wanting to be woken at 0500 and the local troupe of monkeys made sure we stuck to the sleep pattern. One after one they would jump from the trees to the top of the tent causing the whole thing to shake. It was literally raining monkeys. The first morning it was a rude awakening but by day 2 you expected it, although not necessarily appreciated 🙂
There seemed to be a little excitement in the air. Not for the mating season but in anticipation for rain. Animals and land alike were in dire need of rain for the summer had been hot and long. Some vegetation clung to the earth in defiance of the water starvation however it was only a matter of time before defiance became an exercise in futility. Mother Nature was teasing with black clouds on the horizon and air laden with moisture. Although rain threatened, it failed to materialise.
So hungry they could eat a hudu!
The next day we were rewarded with a lightening show and curtains of rain across the plains. From our vantage point looking over the water and flat plains, the rain curtain swept across the sky. Animals began to sing, rejoicing that life becomes safer and more enjoyable.
It may sound ghoulish but seeing a kill is something we have searched for each time in Africa. I know we could hang out in Johannesburg for 10 mins to see that but I’m talking about lions hunting. On our early morning game drive we heard on the next concession that 2 lions had taken down a hudu (I think) and had settled in for breakfast. You might conclude, as had I, that it wouldn’t take too long to get there. How foolish I was. Over an hour later we found them under a tree. They were hot, panting, tired, bloodied and holding a fly carnival on their faces. Another 4wd was already there parked close and in the best position for photos. Which was just as well as these tourists had Hubble telescope size camouflaged lenses affixed to the canopy frame. At such a close range I’m sure they could take a picture of their brain! I had lens and timing envy for they had arrived to see the feast and would have taken great shots.
Zarafa also had its own sunset cruise. The boat may not be the most salubrious but it had the lake to itself, fantastic views and appropriate refreshments. It also was the method by which we got close(ish) to hippos discussing the daily news. As the sun bid us farewell, we putted our way back to the 4wd and our first night drive. Although remaining on the reserve, there was a chance to catch a glimpse of Mr and Mrs Nocturnal….a very very very very very slim chance. Nothing was seen except the same animals we found during the day but it we did get to see some trees via torchlight.
After a long day being out, Zarafa is a welcome respite. Lots of unhealthy but tasty food to eat, comfortable seats, drinks and a birds eye view of the lake and animals.
