Photos : Paro and beyond 09/10 Thimphu and beyond 09/10 Tigers Nest Monastery 09/10
A path less travelled
So where is Bhutan and why would you go there? Well it’s a mountain kingdom nestled between India and China. I first heard about Bhutan when my father went there back in the early 1990’s. I knew nothing about it at the time but was instantly fascinated by the fact not many tourists can get there and some of the info that Dad relayed about the lifestyle, scenery and people. Whilst desperate to go at that time it was easy to realise that due to the cost and my very low wage, it was not possible (unless I wanted to spend at least 1/2 a year’s take home pay on a less than 2 week holiday). So fast forward to 2009 and a random chat with 4 friends to discover all of us want to visit Bhutan. We all nodded and did some research on tour companies and the offerings of each. Rachel’s father had travelled there with Mountain Kingdoms and spoke highly of them. We all liked what we saw so a holiday was booked in Jan to travel in September.
Let me say up front that I will refer to the buildings by the incorrect names however for reference, the main sites can be classified in one of the 4 types listed below :
- Dzongs (fortresses)
- Lhakhangs (temples)
- Goenpas (monasteries)
- Chortens (stupas)
They say getting there is 1/2 the fun
Do a search for Bhutan Paro Landing and you’ll see heaps of comments about the scare factor. The terrain and type of landing required is similar to that Gilgit in Northern Pakistan. Although in Pakistan we were in a Fokker Friendship this time we were in an airbus. Having an airport in a valley presents certain challenges, one of which is lining up the runway with winds coming from the surrounding 5000m/16,500ft mountains doing their best to make things difficult. In a sort of corkscrew fashion you swoop over the valleys in decreasing circles until the runway is in sight. The plane corrects itself from the corkscrew 45 degree angle, levels and you land at Paro (2280m).
As soon as you land you are presented with ornate buildings unlike any other airport I’ve been. Almost everyone whips out their cameras and snaps away at the airport buildings replete with ornate wooden carvings around the doors, windows and roof lines. Even in the main cities there are many buildings adorned with wooden carvings. Welcome to the Land Of The Thunder Dragon.
We had a group in the queue with us that was in a hurry to get nowhere in particular but didn’t like the fact they weren’t rushed through immigration like the important people they believed themselves to be. I rejoined the queue in front of them next to Chris which sent Mrs Silver Fox ‘I’m So Important’ into a tail spin (you like that very bad pun?). Apparently if you’re from the area north of South America then you should be treated as though you can walk on water….I must have missed that class at school but had an idea about what I could do with her head and a bucket of water….whoops…did I write that? The officials were friendly and welcoming which proved to be true for Bhutan as a whole.
Land Of The Thunder Dragon
Paro has the airport but it’s not the capital city. The actual size of the city is small and quaint e.g. it has one main street that you could never imagine being busy except if two donkey carts running side by side is considered busy (downtown pic to the right that shows how dangerous it can be to cross the road). It’s nestled in the centre of the valley on the Pa Chhu River, which probably helps explain why the Paro valley is known as the most fertile valley. Due to its proximity to Tibet, it was too frequently invaded by the Tibetans however the flip side was in times of peace it was a hub for trade.
Luckily for us there’s a way to spend time in Paro away from the rain that had decided to befriend us. We were taken to Bhutan’s national museum that is spread over 6 floors in an old cylindrical building built in 1641 AD. The Para Dzong (Zhong) was the center of administration in the state therefore attracted attention from those pesky invaders. The original purpose of the building was as a watchtower to look over the Paro Dzong. Whilst the building today is home to the national museum, during its life it has served as home for soldiers and prisoners of war. Today you don’t get the feeling it was used for these purposes as there’s no immediate reference to it, no holding cells, and generally no glorification of war. It is a classical Bhutanese approach to the country’s history, the country’s future and its way of life. You find an old building reused as a museum thus preserving the landscape, architecture and making the past part of the future. There are national treasures stored in the museum however an honour system applies whereby the only thing separating you from the treasures is a piece of rope coupled with a sign stating ‘Do Not Touch’….oh and some CCTV that covers some of the areas. It’s a burglars delight however the Bhutanese genuinely believe that if something is stolen that it will be returned out of guilt or divine intervention (true story not my BS).
The national dress is required to be worn during the daylight hours and for the most part the citizens comply. There appears to be some resistance, unsurprisingly from a small number of the younger people, to fully comply however by enlarge the code is followed.
The capital city Thimphu has around 100,000 people only and doesn’t have an airport. Other cities are smaller, more quaint and have a ‘country’ feel about them. The people appear to lead a relaxed spiritual lifestyle centered around family and Buddhism. The latter forms a huge part of any visit to Bhutan and no matter your religious views (or lack of views) its presence and methods don’t come across as the ‘fire and brimstone’ type of Catholicism or Christianity.
The education system has gone through a steady change over the last century. Until the 1950’s the only formal education (except for private schools) was done from via the Buddhist monasteries. In the 60’s formal structures were introduced and the student number increased dramatically however enrollment was not made mandatory therefore the benefits of education was not as far reaching as the monarchy would have hoped. In the early 1990’s there were some guesstimates/estimates around literacy levels and the results ranged from 12-30% of men and 6-10% of women. One thing that you hear over and over, is most people working or studying outside of Bhutan return home so regardless of the stats or the validity of them, people seem to return home to roost.
In Paro we got to see inside our first zhong called Rinpung Dzong. It overlooks downtown Paro to one side and the airport the other. Entering the zhong you are presented with paintings depicting different aspects of religious beliefs. Throughout Bhutan paintings adorn the entrances and depict relationships between the demigods, beliefs and more. Unlike the depictions in the Catholic churches showing violent acts, the pictures here are more subtle and show the teachings or beliefs in a colourful and basic form.
Each entrance also has a prayer wheel, often very large. Once past the wheel and through the gates you enter a courtyard with ornate woodwork around the doorways, hand railings and pretty much anywhere where there is wood! In the center is a temple. Obviously the larger temples have multiple buildings and in many or most of these you are not permitted to enter.
Let the fables begin!
Our tour leader was Ned, an amazing inspirational man who’s lived 2 lives in the space of 1 and whilst in his 80’s (sorry if I got that wrong Ned) doesn’t look like he’s slowing down. When asked specifically, he would tell stories about his time working at the BBC on a variety of shows that saw him travel extensively. He got to see and do more during this time than most people could dream of doing. He’s quietly spoken yet captivating to listen to. When he finished with our tour he was off hiking for a few weeks for fun. An inspiration and I can only hope to be as fit and enthusiastic when I reach his age.
Ned’s partner in crime was Bull. His nickname was apparently due to his wrestling style in school. On the morning of day 2 we were asked if we minded having the itinerary changed. Instead of seeing the Tigers Nest monastery on day 10 would we mind seeing it today. Hell no we wouldn’t mind!!!
This temple is iconic. Even those not familiar with Bhutanese festivals will more often than not know of the Tigers Nest. The name Tigers Nest aka Tigers Lair (literal translation from the Tibetan Taktsang) comes from the legend/fable/story/wives tale/etc that Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) flew, yep you read that right…flew….can you say ‘one flew over the cuckoos nest’? Sorry I digressed, that Mr Guru flew to the Tigers Nest site from Tibet AND, let’s not leave out the important transportation aspect, on the back of a tigress from Khenpajong. As a result of Mr Guru’s flying prowess the lair was consecrated to tame the Tiger demon. Ok, so if you’re religious you may find some credence in the first of the fables on our magical mystical tour of Bhutan, BUT at some point a remote element of common sense and skepticism must creep into anyone’s mind and challenge the notions put forth. This was the introduction to a seemingly endless stream of story telling however it was presented with unwavering belief by Bull and in the most un-preaching (is 
that a word?) manner.
From Paro to the start of the climb is a relatively short distance, in both time and distance, with the latter not always proving the theory. The actual monastery is on a escarpment 900m above the Paro valley. The walk is along a winding path that isn’t too steep however a mixture of heat and increasing altitude makes you work. The work is rewarded when you manage to sneak a peak through the clouds and trees to see Taktsang. Eventually you round a corner to find a prayer wheel, flags, even some donkeys and a clear view of Taktsang. A short distance from the prayer wheel is cafe/restaurant with some chairs and perfect view of the temple. Up another 30-45 mins and you get to another lookout from side on and it’s this view the puts the location and viewing aspect into perspective. Whilst it may not completely take your breath away it draws you in.
Taktsang was the first temple and an introduction to the fables that underpin Bhutanese Buddhism. My brain started to switch off by 1/2 way through the first fable and by the 5th my brain was in reverse. Whilst being regaled with the stories I was checking out the scenic views and other parts of the monastery. The actual design and depictions are similar in all of the temples we were to visit but it’s the location and view that sets this place apart, in a big way!
My waffle can’t do justice so I’ll let the pictures do the talking.
The King Buddha’s Karma
The Thimphu festival is a major Buddhist festival in Bhutan and especially in Thimphu. Bull, our local tour guide, had gone above and beyond the local tour leader code in checking all was in order to allow us foreigners into the zhong (monastery) to witness the festival. We arrived early dressed in our travellers Sunday best (anything that was clean and covered all the appropriate anatomy). As soon as we stepped off the bus the local policewoman informed us that
we can not take any photos of the outside of the Zhong, such as the one to the right 🙂- we could not enter the Zhong
- we could not stand/loiter in the car park
The whole photo thing was because the king was inside. So he may come out to wave at us and we shouldn’t take a pic or we’re going to steal his soul by taking an unauthorised pic? Whatever way you slice it, it’s bullsh ! T. Nonetheless there’s no point in jumping up and down or throwing the toys out of the pram, so we waited for Bull to weave his magic.
Bull headed inside to check with the Buddhist hierarchy about what happened to the agreement about granting us access. A caring and gracious patrol woman (if you believe that you believe in the tooth fairy) came up to our group and said we weren’t allowed to loiter in the car park outside. Again maybe we might storm the place or block the non-existent traffic or maybe our Sunday best that we had donned (as we were told to be presentable before setting off from the hotel), or maybe we didn’t make the fashion police grade. This meant we were bundled back into the bus to hide around the corner awaiting the outcome of Bull’s discussion. It was not good news when Bull called. Apparently his lamaness decided there were too many requests from the foreign devils so spat his lama dummy out across all the valleys of Bhutan (yes I did make up how far he can spit a dummy) banning all requests. Lama with attitude or lama with chip on shoulders are not names you are allowed to say in Bhutan so I didn’t and won’t. So much for the Thimphu festival, we were black listed.
An alternate itinerary was created and we visited the nunnery with the astrological school to follow. Enroute to the nunnery we decided if the zhong hosting the Thimphu festival wouldn’t allow us to photo the zhong from close up, we should stop on the road above the zhong and take some pics. The view is nowhere near as spectacular however it gives you a different perspective of the structure and size.
The nunnery didn’t welcome us with open arms but they smiled as we descended on their serenity and granted us access to the buildings. Outside was a older lady who was working with clay to make items for sale. She had a cheeky smile and once the cameras were pointed at her decided that she looked better in a cap with dogs ears. Next to her were 2 other ladies preparing the clay by hand however these 2 didn’t look as impressed to see us however if I was asked to sit on concrete and pound mud with a wooden mallet I wouldn’t be jumping for joy 🙂
There’s a small temple inside that has the usual temple adornments however this one also had more comfortable looking chairs complete with cushions and carpets. The layout and size of the temple fits perfectly with the nunnery.
Paper, Paintings and Remedies
On the outskirts of Thimphu there is a traditional paper making factory where you see ladies making the dye for paper bags and handle, the actual paper (all made by hand). The presses and machinery isn’t motorised at all so it’s hand cranked. The paper is sold in the shops primarily for the tourists or for special celebratory cards.
In a similar vein, we got to visit the Choki Traditional Art School (CTAS). This school typifies the Bhutanese collective mind set and sociological views. The school was established in 1999 with 2 objectives. 1) educating those children who had the misfortune of being unable to continue their formal education (either financial or social reasons) and 2) to help preserve and promote the cultural heritage of Bhutan. The school is non-profit and uses all monies to provide a self-sustaining program on skills development in the traditional arts and crafts of Bhutan.
The school’s name is from its founder, Dasho Choki Dorji. He had not only the vision but the contacts. He managed to obtain the approval from HRH Ashi Dechen Wangmo Wangchuc and I think it was this recognition allowed for the school to be ‘legitimised’. Currently the school offers general courses in a variety of traditional arts including wood carving, sculptures, drawing and painting. Sort of like a higher education offering, after the 2nd year, students are given the opportunity to extend their skills by undertaking more advanced or specialised courses. To graduate a student must complete 6 years of study in both practical and theory. OMG….I’d have chopped my finger off within 1 year and by the 6th would be lucky to have any fingers left!
On top of that, classes in basic English and maths are also provided. The school’s concept is brilliant, except for the financial shortfall, and it’s been put into practice. To fund the ongoing costs it’s the students and teachers that contribute by selling their works. Due to the tourist numbers and dare I say, kitsch, of the produce a shortfall exists year on year. I’m not saying the work is bad but it’s…well kitsch. Luckily the Himalayan Youth Foundation (HYF), some individuals (via sponsorship) and some of the blue rinse tourists make up the difference.